Public scrutiny is nothing new for First Ladies.  This sleeveless dress worn by Mamie Eisenhower for her official portrait in 1953 also caught media attention. Lest you think the baring of arms is some kind of Democratic affiliation, Mamie was the wife of a Republican.

Mamie was known for her outgoing manner and especially her love of fashion and jewelry.  She was a popular hostess during her husband’s term at the White House as we suspect Michelle will be as well.  From a diplomatic standpoint, this is a good thing.

Imagine if Michelle Obama were to wear something as revealing as Dolley Madison’s choice in 1809.  And we think the styles are slutty today? Oddly enough, the “girls” look like they are defying gravity on their own without the benefit of a corset. Maybe this is what prompted former First Lady, Abigail Adams, snide remark that she looked like a “nursing mother”.

Francis Cleveland, wife of President Grover Cleveland, was also partial to sleeveless gowns, prompting the Women’s Christian Temperance Union to circulate a petition in 1988 trying to get her to cover up. They believed she was an immoral influence on young girls. Yeah, well, that didn’t work because she continued to keep showing some skin and her style was widely copied by other women.

Mamie led the way in the armsgate controversy with Jackie Kennedy continuing the trend in the early 60s.

That was the style in the day and Jackie wore it like it was a uniform. Her look was considered to by classy and elegant, emulated by women all over America. Such is the power of dress! After being criticized for her penchant for French design, she took up with American designer, Oleg Cassini who produced more than 300 outfits for Jackie. It is said that her clothing bill far exceeded the President’s salary, but was paid for by her father in law, Joseph P. Kennedy.

In today’s world it is not uncommon for designers to send gifts to celebrities so they’ll wear the gown on the red carpet. Should this be the case for First Ladies? Who pays for Michelle’s wardrobe? The simple black Michael Kors dress Michelle wore for her official portrait retails for $3,195 but her dress was custom made especially for her. Such was probably the case for Jackie too but history tells us they weren’t freebies.

Chief Vogue Editor Anna Wintour and White House Secretary Desiree Rogers at New York Fashion Week

Desiree, can we have your job please? We don’t care much about hanging out with American Vogue Editor-in-chief Anna Wintour (of Devil Wears Prada fame) but front row at all the fashion shows would be The Sweetest gig ever. We thought the White House Social Secretary job to be all about appointments and calendars and thank you notes and not about Carolina Herrera, Donna Karan, Thakoon and Marc Jacobs. Actually, Ms. Rogers is the official party planner, responsible for all White House functions, state dinners and the like. Now she’s the Rachel Zoe of the White House and stated it was important for the Administration to be supportive of all the arts, including fashion. That’s cool, but fashion is also big business.

"Michelle and Sasha...." by artist Elizabeth Peyton

New York artist, Elizabeth Peyton, translated a magazine photo into an oil painting entitled “Michelle and Sasha Obama Listening to Barack Obama at the Democratic National Convention August 2008″.  She is most famous for her works of Kurt Cobain and Leonardo DiCaprio. An oil on canvas of John Lennon sold for $800,000 in 2006 and her works are now in the collections fo the Museum of Modern Art in New York and the Centre Pompidou in Paris. While this painting doesn’t make Ms. Peyton an overnight success (uh, 800 grand says she’s already arrived) we like the free press she’s gotten by painting the Obamas. It’s not surprising that past subjects include members of the Kennedy family since so many correlations have been drawn between the Obamas and the Kennedys.

If the Platform in Support of the Arts gets off the ground then the next generation of artists might have a chance to enjoy the same success. This is an excerpt from the campaign site:

Our nation’s creativity has filled the world’s libraries, museums, recital halls, movie houses, and marketplaces with works of genius. The arts embody the American spirit of self-definition. As the author of two best-selling books – Dreams from My Father and The Audacity of Hope – Barack Obama uniquely appreciates the role and value of creative expression.
A PLATFORM IN SUPPORT OF THE ARTS
Reinvest in Arts Education: To remain competitive in the global economy, America needs to reinvigorate the kind of creativity and innovation that has made this country great. To do so, we must nourish our children’s
creative skills. In addition to giving our children the science and math skills they need to compete in the new global context, we should also encourage the ability to think creatively that comes from a meaningful arts
education. Unfortunately, many school districts are cutting instructional time for art and music education. Barack Obama and Joe Biden believe that the arts should be a central part of effective teaching and learning.
The Chairman of the National Endowment for the Arts recently said “The purpose of arts education is not to produce more artists, though that is a byproduct. The real purpose of arts education is to create complete human
beings capable of leading successful and productive lives in a free society.” To support greater arts education, Obama will:

• Expand Public/Private Partnerships Between Schools and Arts Organizations: Barack Obama and Joe Biden will increase resources for the U.S. Department of Education’s Arts Education Model Development and Dissemination Grants, which develop public/private partnerships between schools and arts organizations. They will also engage the foundation and corporate community to increase support for public/private partnerships.

• Create an Artist Corps: Barack Obama and Joe Biden support the creation of an “Artists Corps” of young artists trained to work in low-income schools and their communities. Studies in Chicago have demonstrated that test scores improved faster for students enrolled in low-income schools that link arts across the curriculum than scores for students in schools lacking such programs.

• Publicly Champion the Importance of Arts Education: As president, Barack Obama will use the bully pulpit and the example he will set in the White House to promote the importance of arts and arts education in America. Not only is arts education indispensable for success in a rapidly changing, high skill, information economy, but studies show that arts education raises test scores in other subject areas as well.

• Support Increased Funding for the NEA: Over the last 15 years, government funding for the National Endowment for the Arts has been slashed from $175 million annually in 1992 to $125 million today. Barack Obama and Joe Biden support increased funding for the NEA, the support of which enriches schools and neighborhoods all across the nation and helps to promote the economic development of countless communities.

• Promote Cultural Diplomacy: American artists, performers and thinkers – representing our values and ideals – can inspire people both at home and all over the world. Through efforts like that of the United States Information Agency, America’s cultural leaders were deployed around the world during the Cold War as artistic ambassadors and helped win the war of ideas by demonstrating to the world the promise of America. Artists can be utilized again to help us win the war of ideas against Islamic extremism. Unfortunately, our resources for cultural diplomacy are at their lowest level in a decade. Barack Obama and Joe Biden will work to reverse this trend and improve and expand public-private partnerships to expand cultural and arts exchanges throughout the world.

• Attract Foreign Talent: The flipside to promoting American arts and culture abroad is welcoming members of the foreign arts community to America. Opening America’s doors to students and professional artists provides the kind of two-way cultural understanding that can break down the barriers that feed hatred and fear. As America tightened visa restrictions after 9/11, the world’s most talented students and artists, who used to come here, went elsewhere. Barack Obama and Joe Biden will streamline the visa process to return America to its rightful place as the world’s top destination for artists and art students.

• Provide Health Care to Artists: Finding affordable health coverage has often been one of the most vexing obstacles for artists and those in the creative community. Since many artists work independently or have nontraditional employment relationships, employer-based coverage is unavailable and individual policies are financially out of reach. The Obama-Biden plan will provide all Americans with quality, affordable health care. Their plan includes the creation of a new public program that will allow individuals and small businesses to buy affordable health care similar to that available to federal employees. Their plan also creates a National Health Insurance Exchange to reform the private insurance market and allow Americans to enroll in participating private plans, which would have to provide comprehensive benefits, issue every applicant a policy, and charge fair and stable premiums. For those who still cannot afford coverage, the government will provide a subsidy. His health plan will lower costs for the typical American family by up to $2,500 per year.

Ensure Tax Fairness for Artists: Barack Obama supports the Artist-Museum Partnership Act, introduced by Senator Patrick Leahy (D-VT). The Act amends the Internal Revenue Code to allow artists to deduct the fair market value of their work, rather than just the costs of the materials, when they make charitable contributions.

Ok, this seems pretty ambitious considering the country is bankrupt. This could be a good cause for Michelle, getting the private sector to pony up some cash for these programs. There’s plenty of rich CEO’s out there. Hey, our friend, Mickey Drexler of J.Crew, has got an extra $65.5 million in stock he might be willing to donate.

Elementary school teachers usually don’t have budgets for art supplies so if you have some left over from crafts projects you can donate them to your local school. Scrapbooking supplies can be useful too.

]]> http://www.obamastylewatch.com/2009/03/dream-job-front-row-at-fashion-week/feed/ 0 http://www.obamastylewatch.com/2009/03/its-official-kors-offshores/ http://www.obamastylewatch.com/2009/03/its-official-kors-offshores/#comments Sun, 01 Mar 2009 23:45:31 +0000 Jones http://www.obamastylewatch.com/?p=209 There seems to be some controversy over Michelle’s bare arms. Typically, you’re supposed to keep your arms covered while in church or so the Catholics seem to think. Religion aside, the cut of this dress makes her look muscular, more athletic than First Lady like.  The plum dress worn at the Congressional speech would have been more appropiate as a sleeveless dress. We like the fact that she chose an American designer, Michael Kors, but of course, the dress itself is imported. From Michael, you can choose dresses in the $1,000 range made in Italy or you can get a $200 dress imported from China.

Remember the New Energy for America Plan from the campaign trail?

The Obama-Biden comprehensive New Energy for America plan will:

• Help create five million new jobs by strategically investing $150 billion over the next ten years to catalyze private efforts to build a clean energy future.

• Ensure 10 percent of our electricity comes from renewable sources by 2012, and 25 percent by 2025.

So, what kind of energy was used to make this dress and transport it into the hands of Ms. Obama? The retail version sells for $3,195 so it’s from Italy. Three grand for a LBD?? Unless you’re fabulously wealthy you’d have to expend a lot of your own energy to pay for this dress. We love the Italians (especially when it comes to shoes) but we’re thinkin’ this dress was not produced in a solar powered factory with sustainable materials. Even if was sewn by hand (big savings in electricity!) can’t Michael  find anyone in the US to manufacture this dress? Why should the Italians or the Chinese get all the work? Not to mention the fact it had to cross the ocean and that takes barrels of oil to power the ship. If we manufacture here, we can control the processes of the product.

Robert Garland of the U.S. Department of Energy has this to say:

By developing and adopting more energy-efficient technologies, U.S. industry can boost its productivity and competitiveness while strengthening national energy security, improving the environment, and reducing emissions linked to global climate change.

Attaining energy independence is a growing concern across the nation. If the United States intends to maintain its current standard of living, the goods we use in the future must be made more efficiently. Energy efficiency and clean, renewable energy will mean a stronger economy, a cleaner environment, and greater energy independence for the United States.

Yeah, it’s only a dress but it’s mass produced and even though the label says “Made in Italy” it could be easily made in Prato, Italy where Chinese sweatshops flourish.

Speaking of Michael, what about all those Project Runway designers? Season Two winner, Chloe Dao, will be hawking her line on QVC tomorrow and you guessed it, all the garments are made in China. It can be a daunting task to get the design from sketch to product but what if Tim Gunn gave lessons on how to get it done in America? The show has a tremendous following (we’re fans) and all those designer wannabes could be starting up their own fashion houses here and creating jobs. It seems there is more motivation for profit than patriotism.

Sweet Home Alabama

We started this blog asking what President Obama and the First Lady should wear because we believe they should be wearing American made goods. What is the real cost of a dress produced in a foreign land? How much energy can be saved by manufacturing the same dress locally?

These are questions that Natalie Chanin had to consider when her company, Project Alabama, began to grow. She parted ways with her financial backer and Project Alabama clothing is now being produced in India. She remained in her hometown of Florence, Alabama and started up Alabama Chanin, producing exquisite creations with her stable of local artisans. This is exactly what Michelle Obama should be wearing.  To quote her website: “From farmer to fiber to artisan to home, our products are “grown-to-sewn” in USA”. Her clothes and home furnishings are not mass produced and are sewn by hand which makes them quite expensive but guess what the local artist does with her fair wage? She pours it right back into her local economy.

Since the inauguration of George W. Bush in January 2001, 350,000 textile jobs — almost a third of the total — have been lost. Another 400,000 jobs are expected to disappear by the end of the decade. The conscientious American consumer can force this business back to our shores. The government cannot bail out the entire union. It’s up to Americans to save the country.

Anyway, we’d love to see Michelle wearing Alabama Chanin!

Tracy Reese Dress

African American designers get props from Michelle wearing Tracy Reese on the cover of People magazine. Tracy’s southern sistahs might like a job sewing some of her beautiful designs but that work is performed in China or India.

This Tracy Reese Guipure Lace Kimono Dress in Dried Azalea retails for $395 at her boutique in NYC.

This dress is from American Apparel, made in Los Angeles and retails from their online store for $35.00. No, a cotton rib dress doesn’t compare stylewise to Guipure Lace but from a manufacturing standpoint it’s not much different. The person sewing the American Apparel dress makes $12.00 an hour and the corporation still makes a nice profit selling it at $35.00. Obviously, lace is more expensive so let’s say the Tracy Reese dress COST $70 to make which is highly unlikely and it sells for $395?? Whoa, that’s alot of profit, but for who?? At that kind of markup, we could afford to pay our employee more than 12 bucks even in factoring health care and maybe some other perks like child care that American Apparel offers.

A quick search on Ebay turns up a new-with-tags Tracy Reese Paper Bag Runway Dress offered at $86 with an original retail of $660. If it’s so easily devalued then was it really worth $660 to begin with? How many barrels of oil did it take to cross the ocean? These are questions we should be asking ourselves when we buy anything.

It was nice to see her walk into the gallery without having to work through that back slapping, hand shaking, schmoozing display that took place before the speech. One can only stand so much sucking up.

Peter Soronen Dress

Man oh man. Michelle makes us hopeful for our country, exuding so much style and elegance. This sequined, strapless gown is by Peter Soronen and the show stopping necklace is none other than Tom Binns. Tom is famous for his vintage mixes of pearls and punk and while we adore the Irish, maybe there’s an American designer that is manufacturing the same esthetic. It takes a little more work to ferret out local talent but hey, our economic survival is at stake. We believe this dress is made in the USA.

There have been many comparisons of Michelle to Jackie-O and rightly so. She has style and elegance and Hollywood loves youth. Of course, the only thing bad about celebrity is over-exposure but for our intent we want to see lots of Mrs. Obama. We want to gush over the fact that she chooses her clothes carefully and with an American made label.

Stephen Burrows Spring 2009

I suppose Michelle doesn’t want to appear racist by wearing only clothing by African American designers. But hey, how about one or two pieces?? This Stephen Burrows dress looks like the First Lady’s style. What about Tracy Reese? Her dresses are divine. Then there’s Byron Lars. He hasn’t designed since the 1990s but maybe he’d make a comeback if Michelle were interested. These are only 3 African American designers and there’s plenty more. Maybe some prior season contestants from Project Runway would like a chance at the limelight and build a business here in the USA. Yeah, I know fashion seems kinda trivial but it’s fun and it’s also a multi billion dollar business that we’ve sent offshore. We need that business back here to help America recover.

Tracy Feith Dress

We like our home grown surfer dude, Tracy Feith from big ‘ol Texas. Tracy probably didn’t need the publicity because in May, his designs will be hittin’ the racks at Target. (His current offerings are USA made.) Isaac has had a pretty good gig with Target and yeah, everybody likes the price points but we all know that mass market clothing is mass produced in factories in far away places. We hear the big corporations swearing that they don’t use sweatshops and then we read about their stuff being made by 8 year olds. You can’t control manufacturing at such great distances so the only way you can be really sure that your clothing is ethically made is to have it made in your own country. Instead of an ivory tower, you can have a nice office in the same facility where it’s sewn. Think of all the barrels of oil that can be saved. Any chance J. Crew is listening? Anyway, our hope is for a thriving garment industry here in the USA, where people value their clothing for many years before they give them to charity. BTW, this photo was taken at the prayer service on the first day of her new job.